Thursday, October 9, 2014

More chickens, men in skirts, and camels oh my!

Monday October 6- Ah yay for a good day! It is such a great feeling to see all my efforts of the past two years starting to show some benefit, in small tiny ways I never imagined. The past few days I have been buying materials with my two closest guy friends Gobezie and Elias to build a small portable chicken coop. This is a project that has been evolving for the past several months and its finally coming together. Today we build the majority of it at Elias’s house, me taking notes on how to build it and playing with the cute neighbor girl, while Elias and two friends did the “man” work. I took them to lunch (54 birr, so about $2.70) and in the afternoon we were having fun joking around feeling good about the work we had done. Earlier in the morning I went to the Ag office and had fun saying hi to people hearing them complement me on how fat I am (I don’t think I’ve changed in the past year) and how “perfect” my Amharic is (I still feel like I speak like a five year old).
Later in the afternoon, just before the rain started I stopped by my favorite ladies coffee shop and helped them to make dabo kolo, a tiny little bread ball thing colored red, green and white, in preparation for my friend Wynshet’s giving birth- who is due in 1 week. (This is so they will have a nice snack to give to people who stop by to wish congratulations). It felt so good to just hang out and chat and cut little chunks of green dough.
Wednesday, market day, will be the teaching of how to build the chicken coop and we will sell lottery tickets to auction off the chicken coop. The money will then be donated to some charity, which I have yet to decide on. It should be fun and I am glad to be working with my friends who have provided great input on the project of ways to improve it. The past two years have simply been building a foundation of friendship, respect and trust which is what has enabled this project to happen. It’s still a simple project but feels so good to have such strong support.

And now for a quick glimpse of what I have been up to for the past 2 months since I last wrote on this blog….
Harar- I went to this ancient walled city, the 6th most holy Muslim place in the world, with three of my Peace Corps girlfriends. We stayed at an amazing “Harari house”, a private family’s home that had a huge living room lined with cushions and brightly decorated baskets. In the morning they served us fluffy crepe type things with honey and strong coffee. In the two day’s that we were there we fed hyena’s meat from a stick in our mouth, ate camel meat and delicious Somali flavored rice with our hands, got our hands decorated with henna by beautiful Somali women, bought colorful scarfs, saw a camel market, ate yummy street food like potato and garlic samosas and falafel, and wandered the narrow streets of the ancient city feeling like we were in a foreign mid-east country. This was a really fun mini vacation and a good glimpse of some different, wonderful cultures. It made me feel for the Somali people who are so forgotten but were so kind and friendly.

Afar and the Awash Falls Lodge- So I had been entertaining the idea of staying another year in Ethiopia to work at a tourist lodge in the heart of the Rift Valley, where archeologists continue to find ancient human remains, some now older than Lucy! The lodge is inside the Awash National Park, a hot, classic African landscape with Acacia trees, hyenas and dust. The lodge itself sits perched on the edge of the Awash river overlooking the mighty Awash falls that were a raging torrent of brown water since it is now rainy season. I had fun drinking a cold beer and watching the falls, especially when I saw three crocodiles hanging out in the eddies catching fish.
The next day the kind Dr. Yirmed (owner of the lodge) and I went out to visit their newest project – a second lodge perched on the edge of a hot springs lake. Yes it is a big lake of hot water, fringed by very tall grass and palm trees (and hosts hippos and crocodiles). Quite an amazing oasis in the middle of the desert. Unfortunately it was roasting hot so I didn’t really feel like soaking in the hot water but it sure was pretty. This place was located right on the boarder of the park but is owned by the Afar people who are notorious for being aggressive. I can kind of understand because they live in such harsh hot conditions barely surviving by grazing sheep and cattle. The men wear colorful skirts that come to their knees and no shirt but lots of armband decorations and all carry some sort of ancient rifle type gun. Dr. Yirmed had a long, Afar-Oromifia-Amharic conversation with some of the elders trying to buy sand and settle on a price to charge tourists for swimming in the lake. As I watched I realized how slow and complicated everything is, even for a respected Ethiopian male. Finally we drove the 26km bumpy dirt road back to the main lodge and I happily fell asleep listening to the waterfalls from my lovely little thatched hut room.
The lodge and staff were are wonderful and Dr. Yirmed is a smart, motivated, conservation minded person but after much deliberation I decided that I did not want to stay another year. I realized I was hoping to make up for the past two years by trying to do similar work- rallying local people to work on creating alternative incomes- except this time it would be in an extremely hot, through beautiful, isolated place.

COS Conference- The day after I returned to Addis from Afar my whole G8 group went to a fancy lodge on Lake Longano to celebrate our “Close of Service” conference. For two days we talked about how to summarize our past two years on a resume, to try to see all of the skills and growth we have made, to try to see how much of an impact we have made (though most we will never see), and all the details of how to return to the States, including learning that returning is way harder that it was to leave in the first place.  It was a powerful, meaningful, enriching two days where I realized I have formed some life- long friendships and have a lot to feel good about. And now I officially have an end date of December 2nd where I will become a “Returned Peace Corps Volunteer” which is quite a badge of honor. It is kind of humbling and very nice to feel like I have spent the past two years working for peace rather than war.
Ok so now I have two months to bust out this chicken coop project, spend time with my close friends, seize the moment and start thinking about what the heck comes next…eeek.


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