Back to the "Grind"

Back to “Normal”, with a tinish side adventure

April 20, 2013

Ah the comforts of home and the joys of freedom. Today I awoke to the continuing drizzle of rain on the metal roof wondering when my clothes would ever dry at this rate. I spent the day dinking around my home, mouse proofing the hole in the door (yay for duct tape and cardboard), cleaning and writing letters. It was thoroughly enjoyable to not leave the house and to have minimal human interactions. It gave me a chance to get things back in order and prepare for a new chapter in my Peace Corps experience- attempting to do some sort of project work. So far the ideas have swirled around my head yet to formulate into something attainable. And who knows if even when I have a “plan” if it will actually happen. But I had a chance to do a little brain storming and research and have settled on starting with the basics- composting and gardening… well duh that’s what I’m supposed to be doing according to Peace Corps. Anyway I had fun doing some more research so I can feel like I know what I’m talking about when doing a demonstration garden. Now that Erik is gone I guess it’s time to get back to “work”.

Yep on Thursday he left on a bus for Addis and now is in London eating amazing eggs Benedict. Ahh the wonders of travel and pleasures of western food. I can only drool... For the past two weeks Erik and I have been having fun exploring Goba and relaxing at home. It truly is amazing how exhausting just interacting with people and walking around in the tropical high elevation sun can be. A few hours and I’m whooped! Erik got to see some of the challenges I face (slow work ethic, language confusion, people shouting “you you you”), and meet some of the people in my life (great coworkers, kind neighbors, fun Peace Corps friends). It was really great showing him around and talking about project ideas, which seem to be endless.

After we recovered from our previous travels and gazing up at the mountains we were eager to go explore in them so we headed to Dinsho where there is the easiest access. We stayed at the old lodge and while we waited for the manager to get back from lunch so we could get a room we had fun taking photos of the warthogs and Mountain Nyala living in the surrounding forests.  Amazing how as soon as you enter the protected national park the animals appear everywhere. Spying on the warthogs we learned that they make a funny humming bird like whirr sound to warn others of danger. We also learned that baby warthogs are super cute!

The next day we walked up into the mountains towards some cliffs and found a mystical stream tumbling down the hill hidden beneath massive boulders. At the top we climbed through stunted “Lord Of the Rings” trees and popped out into a different world. Short scraggly dense bushes hid the grazing Nyala as we wove our way through their pathways. A dark cloud quickly surrounded the mountain and we hid under a tree as it poured rain for a few minutes. Moments later the sun came out and it felt like a sauna as steam rose off the rocks and all the raindrops glistened on the branches. Beautiful! Hiking in the Bale Mountains is always incredible with the huge diversity of unique (and often endemic) plants and animals. If only they were easier to reach from Goba….

This week is Earth Day and Arbor Day so I’m going to teach something environmental to the high school English classes and maybe start a garden if all goes well.  Happy Earth Day everyone! Get out and enjoy the beauty in your neck of the world! 

A sample of the travel photos

Fasilidas Bath (currently a little dry), Gondar

Painted Ceiling- Diebre Salassie Church, Gondar

Erik on top of the Simien Mountains

Castles of Gondar

Mighty Gelada baboon

Rural kids selling trinkets, Simien Mountains

Lovely Lobelia

Terrific touristy travels

Phew, wow, yay, awe! I’ve just had two incredibly wonderful weeks travelling around the main tourist spots with my love Erik. After spending two weeks in Addis in training I was more than ready to get out of the big city. We hopped a short Ethiopian Airlines flight up to the old city of Gondar known for its ancient castles. It was a lovely city and we wondered around imagining the time when it was full of royalty and nobles. Fasilada’s pool was a beautiful castle area with a deep reflecting pool, currently dry but I could imagine how beautiful it could be during the Timket holiday celebrations. We sat for a long time there in the shade of the huge ficus like trees watching cool exotic birds. Another great place in Gondar was the Diebre Selassie church on a hill that had beautiful wall and ceiling paintings of angels and saints.

Next we headed to the Simien Mountains where we met a nice young German couple Lassa and Leonora, who were medical students on a short break. We combined funds and headed into the mountains with our gunned scout Bazih. It was expensive with the silly park fees, scout, mule, mule driver, lodging and transport but worked out to be about 3,000 birr for the both of us, way better than the 200$ per person scam posed to us in Gondar. Hiking in the Simien Mountains was awesome- gnarly crazy steep drop offs, open high plateaus with grass and Dr. Seuss like lobelia. The first day we drove up to Sankobar then hurriedly hiked up to the remote village of Geech Staying in a little “lodge” felt like being in the Himalaya minus the snowcapped peaks. Erik had fun sharing his harmonica with the village boys and quickly got swarmed by their enthusiasm. Hiking up just past a Grand Canyon esk waterfall canyon we bought some great tribal worn hats with funny antenna tops. At night it was cold and clear as we devoured our peanut ginger veggie pasta.

The next day after some route clarification we decided to stay another night at Geech and do a day hike out to the belly dropping Emet Gogo cliffs. It felt like Kauai with crazy steep cliffs dripping in green. Often we saw the massive 9ft wing span bone breaking Lammergeier bird soaring overhead and we fed our leftover lunch bits to the big bold thick billed ravens. Occasionally we heard the bickering’s of Gelada baboons and in Chenneck watched the hairy red chested animals eat, play and be social. So cool! The hiking was tiring at 3,000 meters and the sun was intense but the scenery was breathtaking it keep us all trekking along. I would love to go back after the rains when it is all green. We even saw Ras Dashen (the highest peak in Ethiopia) with some snow on it.

The ride out was a confusing frenzy of convincing Bazih we wanted to take the “illegal” local transit rather than contracting a ridiculous 2,000 birr minivan. Squished in among many rural local people we drove out passing many treacherous drop offs and cliffs. Along the hike our kind German friends were treating people by applying antibiotics to a nasty leg wound on our mule driver, and saline solution to the infected eye of a boy- both preventing serious ailments with simple medicine. Mind boggling to think what a few simple medicines can do for so many people.

Back in Gondar we bought plane tickets and hopped on a plane to Lalibela the next day. Lalibela is the “must visit” destination for Ethiopian travelers- ancient stone churches carved out of rock. It was a lovely little town perched on a steep hill surrounded by more big cliffy mountains in the distance. After getting feisty bartering for a taxi ride (and hanging out with rural village kids while we waited), we drank juices at a peaceful green garden café. At the airport we met a fun New Zealander guy so our group grew, still hanging out with the Germans. The next day we forked over a ridiculous 50$ each to enter the stone churches and spent a long beautiful day exploring the ancients (along with our dud of a guide). The churches were beautiful, spiritual and awe inspiring- all hand carved out of red rock. I loved how it is still totally vibrant and active with lots of priests, nuns and elderly locals praying, singing, circumnambulating around the churches. It had a peaceful ancient feel. It was interesting that they are still a mystery of exactly when and how they were built. Local legend say’s by one person assisted by angels….

Erik and I had fun spending the next two days exploring the outer walls and passageways convinced there were additional hidden caverns and rooms. Next to the churches were old and still used tukuls- circular stone and mud houses. Another ancient feel as people were still living in them. Lalibela was a great town but sadly the kids have become pests in their smart English skills, eventually asking for money, books and clothes. Hard to know if it was a genuine need or not.

Back in Addis, after a nice short plane ride, we did a little shopping and ate dinner at a delicious Indian restaurant. The next day we took a bus down to my favorite city Hawasa and splurged on a nice hotel along the lake. For a full day we had a lot of fun taking photos of birds – there are so many funky beautiful birds along the lake shore- and eating good food. That night we took a boat ride out to see the hippos and watched them bob in the water as the sun set in the distance. Ah tropical paradise. Finally we took one more bus back up into the Bale mountains to my home in Goba. It is nice being home showing Erik around (and showing him off to the Ethiopian men that I am not available). The rains have returned which means great storms in the afternoon and lovely sunshine in the morning. Beautiful and green. Ah I love my home. 

Adventure's in Addis

So I’v been in the city of Addis Ababa for a week now I’m starting to get the hang of it. Addis is almost a different country in itself. In the more developed parts of town I see modern snappily dressed men and women eating cheese burgers and drinking beer, and lines to get on the mini buses. (The norm for most transport is to shove and squeeze in any way you can to get on and get a seat.) The rest of the city is a bustling mix of shops selling fruits and veggies, shoes and everything else typical of a developing country capital. Sadly there is a high amount of homeless people, especially young children and it’s hard having to be cold to them, or dealing with them following and begging for 10 minutes. I am also building up my street sense in knowing the kid selling gum is by shoving the box at me is really reaching into my purse. Balege leba! Rude thief!

Anyway today was a particularly memorable day. We finally had a day off which coincided with a women’s only race celebrating women’s rights. About 20 of the female PC volunteers went, wearing our race t-shirts and had a blast. I have never been in a race before and was blown away by the energy and enthusiasm. We hooted and hollered till our voices were scratchy and bounced and danced till our legs were jelly. Wonderfully fun to see all the women out supporting each other and increasing awareness of women’s rights. Some of the Muslim women even ran the race in their head scarfs and were obviously having a great time. The “race” was only 5km and went through the downtown “ritzy” part of Addis which was also neat to finally see and explore. Now I’m relaxing in the shady grass finally enjoying some free time and quiet.

The past few days were spent in training building a permagarden. Good, useful information that hopefully I can take back to my site and share. It really is an incredible thing if it works- the ability to grow lots of vegetables in a tiny space by reusing waste materials (i.e. compost). Another inspiring session was taught by a PCV about seed saving and now I have a handful of good seeds that will grow in these sometimes harsh conditions. Good timing because I just recently learned that the program that funds my being here- “Feed the Future” is partially funded by Monsanto. Scary! I have heard from other volunteers that sometimes being a PCV sometimes has very negative unintended consequences for developing countries, paving the way for western exploitation. I will do my best to be aware of my impacts and hopefully only create positive change. Fortunately all of our counter parts (the person we are assigned to work with at the Agriculture office) also attended the training and hopefully heard the message that natural fertilizers and seeds are 100x better than chemicals.

I’m working on the final pieces of my CNA report and will do a short presentation on my project ideas tomorrow. I have one more week of training in Addis, with an additional 3 days for a new group I just joined. I am now an (elected) member of the Peer Support Network, a group of volunteers who help with trainings and offer support to fellow volunteers. I am excited at this chance to learn more social/counseling skills and hopefully continue to grow and help others. I’m sure it will also push my comfort zone and force me to do some more public speaking but it’s all good in the long run right?

Now I’m going to go enjoy city life by taking a hot shower and maybe even go out for dinner and eat some yummy ferengi food like Chinese, Mexican or a pesto Panini sandwich…and ice cream! Oh the joys of delicious food the big city!

 So the journey continues this time with more sunshine and flowers in the city named “new flower”.

 (photos coming soonish)...

Reality

February 25th, 2013

Well the honeymoon is over. I had seven weeks of floating through my new world, amazed at my good fortune. Now after continuing to feel low energy and tired from my recent sickness I start to see the mountain that I am attempting to climb. I see it as I start collecting my thoughts and new knowledge about my community in writing my “Community Needs Assessment”. In a way I am simply rewriting what has already been stated in various ways by various groups. It is largely a process for me to begin understanding my community and where I can attempt to help. Which is what brings me to the mountain. It has many sides all connected and all challenging. So far the aspect that seems most pressing is the relationship of cooking fuel and deforestation. There are several different groups working to address this issue and I am curious to see how I can fit into the puzzle. I go through spurts of inspiration soon to be met with bumps, gullies and chasms.

Another smaller hill I climb is the feeling of apprehension. Apprehension because I can’t speak the language. Because even when I think I understand, I don’t. Seeing the abyss of unknowns, uncertainties and feeling scared. Feeling the weight of living in a totally different culture, with so many different opinions, views, ways of being. This has been described to me a culture shock. Maybe it’s not quite shock but more of a sneak. It slips in slowly. Kind of like how right now it is sunny and raining at the same time. I can’t, and don’t want to, change it. But I guess I’ll  just  patiently let it settle in around me, like a fog. Aware of its presence while being aware of my own. Recognizing the difference and letting it be as it is. Because, just as the sun is shining now- these people are beautiful.

Beneath the shouts of “you, you, you”, “ferengi”, and “birr, birr”, behind the giggles and whispers is the urge to connect, to interact and exchange our cultures. I remember this after I have locked myself in my house to avoid the mocking children, trying to hide. But the shining sun beckons me outside. I go for a walk up my new favorite hill and encounter the other side- the beauty in little kids shyly shaking my hand, young girls timidly asking my name, a boy offering me some peas to eat, the girl inviting me into her house for buna. It’s these gestures of kindness that fill me up, open me and remind me why I am here. To experience another culture. For all its up’s and its downs.

From my quiet mountain perch overlooking Goba and the surrounding fields I reflect:

Get out,

Get out and greet the world.                                                                                                  

Climb the hill,

Sweat,

Breath,

Live.

This is it. Whatever it is.

Don’t resist, hide or

Try to change it.

Accept and experience it.

Keep moving,

Keep growing,

Keep living- always. 

Fun in the Bale National Park- my home!

High in the Alpine Plains in Bale National Park

Female Mountain Nyala (not just deer!)

On top of it all!!!

Friend Matt "petting" the giant puffball bush- very very spiney. Made of tiny flowers

Mountain Nyala in the forest

Baboons (in far distance) and the giant puffball bush

Holy Spring Water "Refugee" Camp

Typical rural housing- mud and cow patties with grass thatch roof

Kids herding cattle and the mountain we climbed to the Hora

The Ups and The Downs

Tuesday February 12th, 2013

Hello blog people! It’s been an interesting few weeks since I last wrote. Things were chugging along meeting various organizations and gathering information. Different project ideas keep rolling in which is great! Each day is different and almost never goes “as planed”. I’v learned the best plan is no plan but to go with the flow and accept whatever situation is presented. Quite often this can turn out to be a lot of fun- like going to stranger’s homes for buna or large holy day gatherings. There are at least 15 different saints in the Ethiopian Orthodox religion which means at least 15 days of celebrating by going to church and eating lots of food for a few days.

So after 2 months of 100% healthiness last week I had a bad spell of food poisoning, vomiting for 12 hours mixed with diarrhea for a few days, which left me whipped out for another few days. I finally recovered and went back to work only to go on a really fun but exhausting hike. We (Alemu- my counterpart) went to the local “Hora” holy spring’s where people come from great distances to become healed. Our driver even brought a young girl who was mysteriously paralyzed. On our return home I learned that she was going to live at the Hora until she was healed. The entrance to the Hora felt like a refugee camp. Ramshackle blue and orange tarps we set up in a large cluster housing people of various ailments. Very sad to see, especially since it is located inside the Bale National Park and technically illegal. I could see some ancient old trees getting hacked to pieces for the use of firewood. This is one problem I don’t know how to solve. Anyway Alemu and I and two “guides” hiked up through the forest up to the top of a mountain where the main source of the springs starts. I saw a Black and White Colobus Monkey and a gorgeous reddish bird among the huge trees as we climbed (it was too quick of a glimpse to fully id). The springs were small bubbling out of the rocks and were a cool mineral bubbly water. Hiking back down we saw a narrow gorge and waterfall. It felt very wild and remote- which it was.

Saturday some friends and I took the 45 minute ride over to Dinsho where the headquarters to the Bale National Park is. We then went for another big hike up into the forest, this time seeing several baboons and Mountain Nyala (an endangered and endemic large antelope with curvy long horns). Hiking up into the alpine zone (about 11,000 feet) felt a little like Lord of the Rings” – crazy puffball white spikey shrubs and gnarled dense trees. It was beautiful and so fun to see the vegetation change as we climbed through different zones. It turned into quite the exploratory adventure and by the time we got home I was again exhausted.

Sadly that night I had a fever and by Monday had a horrible headache and fever. I went to the local clinic to get tested for various tropical diseases and came up positive for Typhus- a disease spread by fleas. Luckily the disease is treated by the same drug I use for the antimalarial so hopefully it passes quickly. As I write I am feeling the best I have in several days. So lesson learned- once sick take extra time to fully recover and rest. But I did get to see some incredible things!!! So that’s what I’v been up to the past few weeks. Hugs to everyone! Write if you can!

 PS- My dad sent me a tin of WSU “Cougar Gold” cheese and its absolutely heaven!! Thanks Dad!!!